This year’s New York Fashion Week surmounted radical skepticism of its importance in the current industry. Underneath the low expectations from press and excitement from buyers, we were able to keep our heads straight to bring you a refreshing AW19 analysis:
Marc Jacobs Is it really fashion week without a grandiose showcase from Marc Jacobs? His collection highlighted dramatic capes, opulent gowns, and the continuance of oversized outerwear. In what we would describe as a fashionable walk through time, Marc Jacobs’ runway themes included the regal elegance of the 30’s, the quirky shoulder accentuation of the 80’s, and a memorable closing from 90’s icon supermodel Christy Turlington Burns.
Michael Kors Behind Studio 54-reminiscent pieces stood Patti Hensen, the muse for 70’s gold llamé party dresses, sequin pieces, and shaggy fur coats. Kors’ collection was a nod to his former years, fueled by an extravagant tribute to his New York stomping grounds. The substantial use of the Studio 54 logo shed light on just how influential the legendary nightclub was in Michael Kors’ life.
Oscar de la Renta Across all runways, winter elegance graced the catwalk, incorporating red-carpet worthy feathers, rich textures, and embellishments. Oscar de la Renta’s creative duo, Kim and Fernando Garcia, successfully carried out their vision with a strong collection of reimagined textures, suiting, and outerwear. With an astonishing ball gown marking the grand finale, the collection was a thrilling mix of evening and daywear.
Pyer Moss You’ve more than likely have heard of Kerby Jean-Raymond, who founded Pyer Moss is 2013. The celebration of diversity and culture captured the attention of the fashion industry last September, and Jean-Raymond was named winner of the 2018’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. "We are 80% storytelling and 20% product," said the designer, who described Pyer Moss as "an art project that operates in the fashion space." Pyer Moss ushered in a synergy of activism and social conversations with streetwear, clearing a path for a much-needed perspective in fashion. While the designer hasn’t released a AW19 collection yet, his presence was very much felt during fashion week.
Batsheva The Instagram-favorite made its debut with a performance art presentation, with models donning its proclaimed ‘prairie dresses’ while reading the lyrics of some of Hole’s hits before descending a spiral staircase showcasing the AW19 pieces. One after another, each model stepped to a center stage following a mic to chant tunes, while the finale look, a love-scrawled bridal look, closed out the performative show with a bang.
Tomo Koizumi Much anxiety surrounded the debut of the Instagram-discovered Japanese costume designer Tomo Koizumi. No one knew what to expect. Nevertheless, the same uncertainty left an open mind to receive a breathtaking collection of whimsical puff gowns. Koizumi increased the wow-factor using vibrant hues and a star-studded cast of models including Bella Hadid, Joan Smalls, Gwendoline Christie, and Emily Ratajkowski.
The Break A few brands upheld a gutsy agenda to fight the status quo of exclusivity this year. Itching to break free from the standard fashion week hierarchy, Brooklyn-based contemporary vintage boutique The Break invited guests to participate, versus spectate.
“Hierarchy is outdated. Inclusivity is in. BREAK NYFW is a celebration of every body, for everybody.” said the founder of BREAK, Hannah Richaman. The vintage brand re-invents the “see now, buy now” concept by allowing attendees to shop a curated assortment before the runway show, with a raging afterparty to follow.
11 Honoré Online plus size clothing retailer, 11 Honoré, chose to nix the crowded standing areas and open a pop-up shop with Shopify. Shoppers were able to browse full runway collections from Altuzarra, Christian Siriano, Jason Wu, and more. Laverne Cox closed the show with an epic catwalk, swirling down the runway with ease (despite a donning a cascading red tulle dress), and ending with a shower of silver confetti falling from the ceiling.
Lela Rose Lela Rose traded the sterile, monotonous runway show for a pet-lover runway show equipped with a variety of pups. Famous canines like Rile Bean, an orange Brittan with 33,000 Instagram followers, took to the catwalk (or should we say ‘dogwalk’) alongside Lela’s Rose plaid, floral, and modern female designs.
This season’s most coveted trends draw attention to vibrant color palettes and interesting silhouettes. Four key trends to keep on your radar for the fall? Let’s just say they don’t involve warm tones:
All White Designers ignored fashion’s classic “no white after Labor Day rule,” carrying this trend into the fall. You can expect to see this trend emerge now while consumers incorporate white pieces into their spring and summer wardrobes.
Color Blocking I think we can all attest to participating in the abstract color block trend circa 2011-2012. Now the blocking trend is back with a polished vengeance. Designers opted to style pieces with layering and lively separates. Like our previous mention on layered styling trends, color blocking gives an opportunity for retailers to upsell co-ords and separates this fall.
Crazy Shapes In an anamorphic upgrade, the former square toe shoe has evolved into Platypus Bill. While this isn’t a moniker, (although I found it entertaining to cast Platypus Bill as the villain of Fashion Week), the platypus bill is a slightly bulkier and filled square toe tip with rounded corners - similar to the semiaquatic beak.
Feathers Fashion has turned to feathers to fulfill their cravings of animal inspired pieces. During a time where more designers are opting to go fur-free, vivid, elegant, and extravagant feathered designs took to the Fall 2019 runways. From colored statement coats to exotic evening wear, there were feather options for every moment in our lives.
The main highlight of Fashion Week arguably remains the street style. While fashion influencers donned some of the top SS19 trends like neon, snakeskin, and tie-dye, we noticed the consistent reappearance of knee and thigh-high boots.
We expect this street style trend to continue into AW19, especially since our data show knee-high boots enjoyed peak entry into the market during September 2018 - just in time for the fall/winter season.
Fashion and music coexist harmoniously during Fashion Week, bringing out artist to spectate designer creations and surprise performances. After a provactive show, Lil’ Kim closed out The Blonds runway, performing her iconic “The Jump Off,” and Michael Kors concluded his ‘70s-inspired disco show with an impromptu performance of “Copacabana” by Barry Manilow. Both performances were the perfect accompaniment to their sparking and bedazzled ensembles.